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| porter cable c3151 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Orem Utah
Posts: 508
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Hey ggarrett,
Usually the check valve replacement remedies this problem..A19996 [the check valve lets air into tank but not back out..when it leaks, air pressure stays in the head of the pump and bogs down upon restart.] It sounds like you may still have pressure remaining in the head of the pump and it is not 'bleeding' off..check the tube and fitting going to the pressure switch for kinks or some kind problem..[make sure the pressure relief valve on the p switch is lined up straight..] hope this helps..? cmoorejack |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 20
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I agree with cmoorejack
I would check the air line that goes to the pressure and make sure the pressure switch is bleading the pressure off when the switch shuts off. You should hear a ppppsssssssssssss noise for a few seconds after the motor shuts off. Sometimes the connection gets bent when installing the switch. Make sure the lever on the pressure relief valve pushes on the little pin. My checklist is Check Valve Pressure Switch Relief Valve Trash Can |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
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I am in the US Navy and am deployed right now. We had the same problem with three of our compressors and no one could figure it out. But the problem was so simple. I took the gauge from the P-switch and replaced it with a plug. That fixed the problem for now. I am pretty sure that with another gauge it will run pretty good but it seems to be working fine now. I have been using a nail gun now for 6 hours straight and have not had a problem with it. Any questions just let me know
Last edited by raiderfan1975; 06-16-2009 at 10:25 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2
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Thanks bec98x and raiderfan. Not check valve, compensator tube, press switch or relief valve so far. In the meantime I took the capacitors (one apparently helps the motor re-start under load, and the other balances the running- that's what the motor guys says) out of the motor cover to a local shop and both read dead. I ordered replacements, probably wasting $$ since I remember that the gauge is bad on the PSwitch (reads 0 fully pumped) and I can't plug and test it until I can run the motor again. I'll keep you informed...somebody may benefit from this post thread since it seems that this is a common issue with this unit.
Last edited by bbeef; 06-17-2009 at 09:17 AM. Reason: sp |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
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Would like to hear what turned out to be the problem on both ggarrett and bbeef's compressors? My compressor starts slow when empty then speeds up and runs fine, then just boggs down and throws the breaker on its second fill. Don't see how putting a plug in the guage hole is gonna fix that, my check valve is fine, pressure switch tube is fine, switch hisses at turn off like its suppossed too. Pressure switch conections are looking black from arcing while in "bogg mode", I'm thinking its a capacitor problem? Help please!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
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Figured it out, was the Start Capacitor inside the motor. I melted it from running the compressor on too long of extension cord, the motor never got to full speed and the start cap stayed in charge mode and cooked. Porter cables $98 for the capacitor kit is a little over priced. Individual Capacitors can be bought for $5-$12 just about anywhere. (McMaster, Grainger, motor shop)
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