My FL20 will only run with the choke on. I cleaned out the carb with no improvement. I see 2 adjustment screws in the side of the carb body with an H near one and an L near the other. I assume these are for low and high mixture control. I can't figure out how to turn them. They are recessed and knurled on the end. I tried slipping a small piece of hose over the end but it won't turn them. I can't get needlenose pliers on them either. I think if I can remove these screws, blow carb cleaner thru them and then replace and adjust properly it will cure my problem. What do I use to turn them?
Thanks for any and all advice.
Muddy
assuming your carb is the original it should look like the picture. you would remove the red plugs with either the proper removal tool or a screw to pull them out. I have always had good luck without removing the screws and cleaning the carb.
I would think that you problem lies with either a split fuel line or in the crankcase. Likely an air leak. Run the machine on choke and spray a small amount of carb cleaner using the straw around the carb and crankcase. If there is a change in rpm then you have an air leak.
Could also be that the metering arm in the carb is not high enough. The end of the arm should be the same height as the carb body.
Muddy & bec98x
After reading your posts I had to join just so I could disagree with bec98x's answer. As muddy said the adjustment screws are knurled on the end, I have one just like it. There is no red plug or cap on them, and the one I have is original. I have been looking for a tool to adjust them and am getting no ware so far. Maybe if one could find a set of the red limit covers and cut the tab off of them one could remove the needles or adjust them. This is my problem; I need to adjust them slightly. I will have to look for the red caps, maybe that will work.
Hope I have not offended anyone, just trying to help.
Me again, I found two things. The tool is available from Randy's Engine Repair (E-Bay) I think it was $9.00, or close to that. Once in his store use his search for carburetor adjusting tool. He has several types so make sure you order the right one.
The carburetor Mfg. (Walbro) states they set the carburetor for EPA and engine specifications and can't furnish any tools to adjust the idle and high speed jet. We are supposed to be able to buy the tool from the engine manufacture.
Did you ever solve the problem? I saw a post on another site that said try the tube from a ballpoint pen. You might have to heat it first. Hestitant to buy a tool if the fix won't work. Someone said ethanol in fuel is corroding the nozzles and eventually no adjustment will fix. Hope you're successful.
I recently was asked to repair an fl 20 for a friend. Had to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb. Leaky primer bulb allowed it to idle briefly before bowl emptied and engine died. Once replaced, engine would idle but stall on acceleration. Friend had installed a large universal four string head. Once head was removed, engine ran like a top. Must use lightweight string head if yours has been replaced. Also implies that if drive cable is not completely free, engine has insufficient power to overcome drag and dies. Also know that many two cycles have a spark arrestor in muffler and if plugged, engine will not accelerate. FL 20 did not have separate screen like others I have worked on, but there are two small screened exhaust ports in muffler that should be checked.
I took a piece of hose from an icemaker kit and cut off an inch and slipped it over a small phillips screwdriver and it works great. After a few uses you may need to replace the tube.Take one of the adjustment needles to your local hardware store and find the correct diameter line to fit it. You can buy a foot of it for couple dollars and it will last you a long time.
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